Gute Essen

They're Like the Haflings of the Culinary World

Tuesday, May 6, 2008 | Leave a comment »

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This plate is a +9 plate of awesome. It enchants any food on it to be delicious and has a 75% chance of conferring darkvision 60' on the user.

Vegans are like the haflings of the culinary world. No one really likes to play one, yet there's invariably one in your party. I mean they're no gnome illusionist, but like, still, why would you ever play a hafling? You're small size, can't wield normal weapons. Er wait. This is a food blog. Not a blog about my nerdy middle school years of D&D. Well middle school and maybe in college. But like it was hip then. Right? Right.

So. My-vegan-friend-Alice came over for dinner tonight. (And yes, that is her full name. I know, her parents were totally weird right. Why would they name their kid with a hyphenated first name, especially when it contains the phrase "my-vegan-friend." I mean what if she was a porcineophile?) Which means that I couldn't use any of the awesomeness of animals in the cooking. Shit, I didn't even use honey. Nor lard. Nor butter. Nor bacon. Nor ham. Nor pork. Yet some how I made something delicious.

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The only thing I hated as much as the knight's chessboard tour problem in computer science is the goddamn towers of Hanoi. I don't remember seeing any goddamn photos of any goddamn towers when we learned about Vietnam.

Incidentally my brother's birthday day present to myself came today in the mail. (Birthday? What? 30? What? May 5th? What? Yawn.) It was Mario Batali's Molto Italiano (for some reason I can't say that without using Mario's accent from the N64 Super Mario game. Is that racist? Its-a me! Mario!) So that provided the basic inspiration for tonight's meal, in addition to one of the basic recipes. I also ate at Casa Mono last night for my birthday meal. It was fucking phenominal. And maybe, just maybe, if I play my cards right, I'll grow up to be just as rotund. I mean, I'm not far off...

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It is dark. You are likely to be eaten by a grue.

Also Alice has been having a rough time as of late so I figured I'd make her something that looked as fancy as it tasted. What? You don't think that looks fancy? You obviously aren't privy to chili-trough night at our house. It's like I don't know if I'm sweating because I'm eating too fast or eating too much. Anyway, being the nice guy that I am I made a trio of delicious animal-free dishes. A "stack" of portobello mushroom, eggplant, sun-dried tomatoes and basil, saffron-pea risotto and Mario's (yes, we're on a fat man's first name basis) roasted chanterelles. Only I couldn't find chanterelles. Nor the greens he was talking about. But hey, you make do with what you got.

Yeah. There's a lot of mushrooms. You got a problem with that? Good. I didn't think so. They just have so much flavor and texture for a meatless meal; you can't beat them unless you have 48 hours to prepare tofu well.

Mushroom/Eggplant Stack

  • 1 medium eggplant cut into 1/4" slices
  • 4 portobello mushrooms, stems removed
  • 16 basil leaves (or more. or less.)
  • 16 sun-dried tomatoes, soaked for an hour in very hot water
  • 2 cloves garlic, crushed and minced
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar.
  • salt, pepper and crushed red pepper to taste

  1. Heavily salt the eggplant (with kosher salt) on one side, and place on a wire rack over the sink. After 10 minutes, flip and heavily salt the other side. Let sit for at least an hour, preferably 2.
  2. After the eggplant has rested, rinse well and squeeze the water out of the eggplant. You have now purged it's inner demons. Say 10 hail marys.
  3. In a large bowl mix the oil, vinegar, garlic, a pinch of salt, pepper and chili flakes until you have an emulsification. If you're not a picky vegan, or not vegan at all, add a good shot of honey and some Worcester sauce to this. Marinate the eggplant and mushrooms for 30 minutes.
  4. While the veggies are getting their soak on, turn the oven to broil.
  5. Place the mushrooms and eggplant on a baking sheet and place under the broiler until they start to brown on one side, flip and do the same to the others.
  6. Using the mushroom as a base, stack the eggplant, 2 slices of sun-dried tomatoes and 2 basil leaves per layer. Stack as high as you want. Again, if you're not vegan, thrown some buffalo mozzarella in there too.
  7. Drizzle on some oil and balsamic vinegar at the end.

Saffron-Pea Risotto

  • 1 medium onion diced
  • 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  • 4 tbls olive oil (or half butter and half oil if you don't have a vegan around)
  • 3/4 arborio rice
  • 1 quart vegetable (or chicken) stock
  • 1 tsp saffron threads
  • 2 cups peas
  • 1/3 cup grated romano cheese (you know only if you're not doing this for vegans)

  1. Bring the stock to a simmer and add the saffron, crushed between your fingers.
  2. Put the fats in a large sautee pan and when they start to shimmer, add the onions and garlic with a good pinch of salt. Reduce the heat and let them sweat. Playing C+C Music Factory right now WILL NOT help. But your neighbors will at least have a story to tell their friends. You know, about their gay neighbor.
  3. When the veggies have softened, add the rice and let it cook in the oil stirring frequently until it turns translucent.
  4. When the rice is translucent pour in enough stock until it barely covers the rice and stir well.
  5. Let the rice simmer and keep adding stock when it starts to look dry. Stir well with each addition.
  6. When there's a good 3/4 cup of stock left, taste the risotto. If it's done, hey, it's done. If not, add the last addition. Fold in the peas and the cheese if you're using them.

Shiitake Mushrooms and Dandelion Greens

  • 1 bunch dandelion greens, rinsed and dried
  • 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced
  • 5 chiles, stemmed, seeded and sliced into 1/8" wide strips
  • 1/4 cup and 3 tbls olive oil
  • 1 lbs shiitake mushrooms
  • zest and juice of one lemon
  • salt and pepper to taste

  1. Toss the shiitake mushrooms, cut into halves, with the 3 tbls of oil and some pepper. Place on a sheet pan and broil until they're brown and getting a little crispy.
  2. Meanwhile, heat the oil and add the zest and the onions and cook over medium heat until the onion softens. Add the chiles and cook for another few minutes. Pull from the heat and toss the dandelion greens with this and the lemon juice.
  3. Add the mushrooms and toss well.

categories: vegan risotto eggplant mushrooms

« 09:49 PM

Making Dough Like You're Warren Buffett

Monday, April 28, 2008 | 1 comment »

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They say that life is a shit sandwich, and every day is another bite. But you know what, if this was the bread for it, that would be a-ok.

Hey Erin. You asked, therefore you shall receive.

I've been feeling a little bit like a hobby-holly-homemaker since we moved. Why? Because I bake bread. Not occasionally. I bake bread every weekend and sometimes in the middle of the week if we run out. (also, on a side note I'm trying to figure out what to eat to get my farts to smell like baking bread. I want Julie to come home one day excited for fresh bread but just find out I've had like a quart of beans. but, I digress.)

But forget what you hear — baking bread is one of the most easy things I've ever done in my life, especially if you have the right tools.

Tool number 1: A food processor. Seriously. A stand mixer has it's place (and not just on the counter for display), but if you want to make good bread quickly, a high quality (read: good motor) food processor with the steel cutting blade is what you want.
Tool number 2: Instant yeast. You don't have to proof it. You don't have to keep it alive like some sort of compressed cake science fair experiment. It won't rise so fast that everything has big air bubbles in it. You can buy a massive bag of it and store it in the freezer indefinitely. You can add it to the work bowl with the rest of the dry ingredients (yes, even salt).
Tool number 3: nothing. That's it. Those two things together cut down the active part of making bread from 10-15 minutes to a mere 5 minutes if you're quick about it.

For once though, this recipe isn't stolen wholesale from Mark Bittman's book. I mean, it's close, but it's not 100%. But seriously. Do yourself a favor and make this bread sometime. Even if you don't have a food processor and have to do it by hand, it's worth it once or twice (and it's a great work out.)

The French were right about something — good bread is one of the essences of life itself.

Whole Wheat Sandwich Bread

Yes, I'm using volumetric measurements here. That's because even by weight liquids still involve eyeballing — a humid day may take less liquid, a dry day may take more. You gotta just feel it.

  • 2 cups all purpose flour
  • 1 1/2 cups whole wheat flour
  • 1 1/2 tsp instant yeast
  • 3 tbls honey
  • 1 1/3 cups whole milk (really, use whole milk, please)
  • 1 1/2 tsp kosher salt
  • 2 tsp butter

  1. But all the dry stuff in the work bowl of your food processor (iff'n you got one) and pulse a few times. If you're doing this by hand, stir the ingredients together well.
  2. Turn on the motor and drop in the 2 tbls butter cut into smaller chunks. It should be chilled, but not fridge cold. By hand you'll want it soft and massage it into the dry goods, sort of like making pastry>.
  3. With the motor running, stream in the honey, or mix it in well with the dry goods by hand.
  4. Then add the milk and mix well. The dough should come together to a slightly sticky ball. In the food processor, let this run for a good 1- 1 1/2 minutes. This will mostly knead the dough. When it's done, dump out on a lightly floured surface and hand knead another minute. By hand: dump this out on a very lightly floured surface and start kneading by hand — about 10 minutes or until the dough is smooth and elastic.
  5. Put into a greased bowl and cover with a damp towel for at least two hours, up to three.
  6. Dump out and form into a loaf (press down into a rectangle and then fold up) and place into a greased loaf pan. Cover again and let rise another hour.
  7. With 20 minutes left to go in the last rise, but the oven at 350°F. Put the bread in the oven and cook for 45 minutes.
  8. Let cool at least 30 minutes before slicing.

categories: bread

« 12:52 PM

It's imPASTABOWL

Sunday, April 27, 2008 | 1 comment »

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Girls? You think I'm sexy? You want to do me? Everyone loves a chubby dude!

T-Minus eight days until I turn 30.

I'll let that sink in a little.

But mostly for me.

Thirty.

Just like a bad ABC sitcom.

Alas on the upside:
1. Julie is still older than me.
2. Her mom and dad got me the pasta attachment for my kitchenaide

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Now that I told you a little about myself, let me tell you about my dance. It's real easy to do y'all, so check it out.

So when life hands you lemons, sometimes, you just say "fuck off" and throw the lemons back. Or you make pasta. Either/or. Although, honestly, if I had lemons I'd most likely make hummus. Or maybe some limoncello. Possibly some lemon curd. But most likely not lemonade. I mean it's just so droll.

The last time I made pasta it was our anniversary and I didn't have pasta roller or cutter. It was a real pain in the ass. I have to say though that this wasn't all that much less, it was much less physically exhausting. I followed Mark Bittman's egg-less pasta dough recipe. It was a good, but it was missing that tooth-i-ness that the egg lends to fresh pasta. I would make it again since it felt a little lighter, but it most definitely needed less water. The dough was very sticky when it came out of the food processor.

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If I had one wish in my life it would be to swim in an olympic-sized swimming pool of this. I mean, sure, Fellini probably did that already, but whatever. I'd make it sexy.

Oh, I also made some meatballs. But out of turkey. You know. That whole cholesterol thing. And we had beef last night. But they were still awesome. I also made bread. I've made bread every Sunday for a month now. We haven't bought bread in a month. And I feel really good about that too, but that's another post for another day.

Eggless Pasta

Yes, this was stolen from Mark Bittman, but whatever. Don't be a dick.

  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1/2 cup hot water
  • 2 tbls olive oil

  1. Put the flour and salt in the work bowl of your food processor and turn it on. Talk to it all sweet-like. You know.
  2. While it's on pour in the oil and followed by the hot water. This should bring the dough to a rough all. If not, well, you're fucking retarded. Oh wait. No. I'm sorry that was mean. If that doesn't make a rough dough add just a few more drops of hot water at a time until that happens.
  3. Turn it out on a lightly floured ball and knead until it's smooth, elastic and not really sticky.
  4. Take your pasta machine and put it through it's paces. What? You don't have a pasta machine? Sounds like you need some new fucking in-laws, asshole.

Turkey Meatballs

  • 1.5 lbs of ground turkey
  • 1 medium onion, finely diced
  • 4 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
  • 4 tbls chopped oregano
  • 1/2 cup chopped parsely
  • 2 tbls chopped thyme
  • 1/2 cup tore-up bread (nice crusty Italian load) soaked in whole milk
  • salt, pepper and crushed red pepper to taste

  1. Let the bread soak for a good 15 minutes first
  2. Put the rest of the ingredients in a bowl then squeeze the excess milk out of the bread and tear into smaller pieces
  3. Mix together and refrigerate for 30 minutes
  4. Form meatballs (I used a scoop) and then brown them in some olive oil in a frying pan
  5. Put in the red sauce and tuck in a 200°F oven for two or so hours. At least until the turkey is cooked.

Red Sauce

  • 2 cans san marzano tomatoes, drained, chopped and the liquid set aside
  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  • 4 sprigs thyme
  • 4 sprigs oregano
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 2 tbls tomato paste
  • salt, pepper and crushed red pepper

  1. Heat up some olive oil until it shimmers then lower heat and add the onions with a pinch of salt.
  2. You want to let these things cook down and sweat under low heat for a good 20 minutes.
  3. Add the garlic and let cook for two minutes, then find a clear space and put in the tomato pasta.
  4. Add the reserved liquid, pepper, crushed red pepper, thyme and oregano and raise the heat.
  5. Bring to a boil and add the chopped tomatoes and bay leaves.
  6. Add meatballs and cook in the oven until it's awesome.

categories: tomato sauce pasta meatballs

« 10:43 PM

It's Whats For Dinner

Sunday, April 27, 2008 | 1 comment »

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Sure, Soylent Green may be made from humans, but as far as I know you can't get mad cow from little Timmy.

So we just recently ended a nearly two week sprint of Julie having house guests visit us. And not that I don't like people, but I'm happy to be home by myself again. Although the last set were her parents which don't count really as house guests; they're soon-to-be in-laws!

But being that Julie's mom reads this blog on occasion (Hi Kris!) I figured I'd a) at least cook for them once while they were here and b) write about it on the blog. It's sort of like reading someone else's autobiography about you. No, really, think about it. That makes total sense.

And what a better way to your future in-laws good graces than providing that base primal urge of a large roasted piece of beef. And what goes better with beef than mashed potatoes, broccoli and carrots? Mushroom gravy, obviously.

Oh. And homemade strawberry shortcakes.

God I'd hate to be a localvore.

Mushroom Gravy

  • 3 tbls butter
  • 1 lbs assorted sliced mushrooms (shiitake and crimini for me please).
  • 2 cups vegetable stock
  • 1 medium onion diced
  • 2 small cloves garlic minced
  • 2 tbls fresh thyme
  • 1/4 cup whole milk (or cream -- if you swing that way)
  • 3 tbls flour
  • salt and pepper

  1. Melt the butter over medium heat and add the onions and garlic along with a pinch of salt. You want to sweat these for about 20 minutes until they turn soft.
  2. Add the mushrooms and turn up the heat to medium high. Give it another good pinch of salt. Cook the mushrooms down until they're soft and pliable.
  3. Sprinkle on the flour and stir it into the veggies to make a roux. Cook for a few minutes to get the cereal flavor out of the flour.
  4. Add the stock stirring quickly. Bring the heat up to high and stir until it reaches a boil.
  5. Reduce heat to medium and stir occasionally until the gravy has thickened.
  6. When it's reached your desired consistancy, add the milk (or cream) and stir in.
  7. Serve over mashed potatoes, kasha varnishes, stuffed cabbage, roast beef, ice cream, etc.

Cumin Glazed Carrots

  • 1 lbs carrots cut on the bias into equal sized pieces
  • 2 tbls toasted ground cumin
  • 1 tlbs butter
  • 2 tbls honey
  • Healthy pinch red pepper flake or dollop of harissa

  1. Melt the butter in a pan over high heat -- let it cook for a second until it starts to smell nutty.
  2. Add the carrots and a small pinch of salt and cook until they start to just get soft, about 1-2 minutes.
  3. Add the cumin and the honey and toss over the carrots. Let cook until the carrots are just soft, but not mushy.

categories: beef

« 02:37 PM

Who Wrote the Book of Love

Sunday, April 20, 2008 | Leave a comment »

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One day when bears rule over the human race, the bearded man will be king amongst the hairless.

Who wrote the book of love? Because I'm pretty sure this is the opening chapter.

So, as you may have noticed on the occasion that I post a weekly menu up here, that Julie and I go to my dad's house for dinner every once in a while. One of the holy-grail-you're-still-the-master-cook dishes my dad makes is arroz con pollo. Now, I know. Arroz con pollo isn't hard. No, not really. I mean thow some chicken, rice and water into a pot, throw that shit in the oven and bam -- you've arroz con pollo. But my dad's is something else. I've had a lot of them in the Dominican and Cuban joints that used to dot his neighborhood and I'd say on average his is better than all of those.

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Who the fuck measures rice in metric? Yes, measure out just over a half liter of rice.

So, obviously, I felt like the gauntlet had been slapped down. I mean, seriously, I'm like a younger, smarter, more handsome version of my dad. I can totally rip off his recipe.

And I did. And it was glorious. The real trick -- what separates his dish from others out there is the chorizo. No. Not that he includes it. That's, from what I can understand, very traditional. It's the fact that he renders it out first. Why? Because chorizo is to grease what fire engine is to red. Like breakfast sausage is fatty, but chorizo? So greasy. If you're going to put it anything you gotta render out some of that fat -- especially since you've also got some good schmaltz going on in there too.

So what is the secret? There's no secret as far as I can tell; just a good selection of ingredients.

  • 1 whole chicken, cut into 10 pieces (2 legs, 2 thighs, 2 wings (no tips!), 4 breast pieces)
  • 1 quart chicken stock. STFU n00b! Homemade FTW.
  • 2 cups of rice. Medium or long grain please.
  • 2 red peppers, diced
  • 6 jalapeños, diced (seeds or no seeds. Some like it hot.)
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 medium onion, diced
  • 1/2 cup green olives, roughly chopped (pimento stuffed!)
  • 1 can green pigeon peas
  • 1 dried ancho chili
  • 1 pinch saffron, ground
  • 2 tsp ground toasted cumin
  • 2 tbls tomato paste
  • 1 tsp smoked paprika
  • 1 1/2 chorizo sausages. Fresh if you can get it.
  • 2 bay leaves

  1. Lightly season the chicken with and brown well on all sides in batches if you have to.
  2. While you're browning the chicken, put the chorizo in another pan and cook under medium heat until it gets crispy. Drain and blot with paper towels. Seriously, you'll be so much happier if you do this.
  3. When the chicken is browned, pour off some of the chicken fat and then add your peppers, jalapeños, onions and garlic an reduce heat. Just a small pinch of salt on this. (There's a ton of salt in the chorizo and if you're using store-bough broth you got some there too buddy.)
  4. Sweat these veggies out until they sort of falling apart. Add the tomato paste and let it rust a second. Stir in, add the spices and the chicken stock (that includes the chili pepper). Bring water to a boil.
  5. While you're waiting for the water to boil, turn your oven on to 300°F.
  6. When the water is boiling, add the rice, the chicken, the chorizo, the peas and the olives.
  7. Place in oven and cook for an hour or so tightly covered until the rice is done (the chicken should be just done as well -- you might want to check that too!.)

categories: arroz con pollo

« 06:54 PM

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